July 2, 2008 - Siem Reap, Cambodia 7:45pm

I have arrived safely in my hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Unfortunately, as I suspected would happen, my luggage did not arrive with me. I can only hope that it arrives tonight as predicted (especially since 24 hours of traveling among 4 different countries has left me a bit sweaty and stinky). I was met at the airport by Alessandro, our Global Exchange representative who, if he weren't married, would leave me absolutely dreamy eyed and useless. Fortunately, he is married, so I am free to focus on my purpose for being here. As we drove from the airport to the hotel, I kept waiting for the “city” of Siem Reap to appear before me. To my surprise, the tropical countryside littered with thatched huts, shacks, and shoeless children was the city. At one point, Alessandro alerted me that we were on the main highway, which was, admittedly, a bigger road lined with market stalls. The roads were filled with people on bicycles and motorbikes, all of whom seemed to make their own traffic rules as they went along. Despite the small-scale chaos, it still has the feeling of a village rather than a city. I am in awe of how naturally beautiful this land is, and how out of place I am in it. The town and its citizens don't quite seem real to me, almost as if they are acting the part of southeast asian villagers for my benefit. The sad thing is, they are more real than I am here.

I was so busy being in awe of this new region that I nearly forgot what it is I am here to see. While waiting in line to get my visa at the airport, I noticed a single American man also in line. It brought to mind the statistic that 45-60% of tourists to Cambodia are single men who, presumably, come here for sex tourism. As the thought ran through my head that I could be looking at a real live child sex tourist, and that I had even smiled a friendly “we are fellow Americans in this strange country” smile at him, my stomach lurched and I fought both the urge to vomit and to confront him with my suspicions. I did neither, but I realize that I will have to steel myself for some more close encounters while here. And as we drove through the city streets and I watched the little girls and boys playing on the sides of the road, I couldn't help but wonder how many of them have been exposed to horrors that I can't even imagine. For comfort's sake, I managed to convince myself for the time being that none of the children I saw could be victims of exploitation or trafficking, but I know that the odds are against them.

Tomorrow we are spending all day at Angkor Wat temple, and I'm looking forward to dwelling on the beauty of this great land before facing the ugliness of it.